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Steam
it yourself Cheeseburgers are area’s own, and so is the box
that makes them Whether it’s broiled, fried or grilled, Americans take their hamburgers seriously- and in this part of central Connecticut, the burger of choice is steamed, a tradition that dates back to around 1915 and began either in Meriden or Middletown, depending on whom you ask. Traditionally, getting a burger steamed meant going to places like Ted’s, or the Lunchbox in Meriden, as well as O’Rourke’s Diner on Main Street in Middletown or several other area diners. But some people have been doing it themselves for about 30 years with steamed cheeseburger machines (or without the cheese for those who like them straight). “The magical box can produce sandwiches galore. A delicious sandwich that you will adore,” is how Ft. Lauderdale resident Joseph L. Ercolani described the Burg’r Tend’r in a poem in the Record Journal. “I’m telling the truth as you will see. Try it, make a liar of me.” While some diner owners say versions of the machine, or chest, as it is sometimes referred to, date back more than 30 years, the Burg’r Tend’r was created by Meriden resident Dale Greenbacker. Greenbacker, relying on his engineering background, used heavy-gauge stainless steel in designing the cabinets, which come in 12 and 24 tray models. “They virtually last forever,” said Robert Gattilia, who took over Daleco Inc. in Meriden from Greenbacker in the late 1980’s and makes the steamer in his basement. “It’s like buying a frying pan, actually, or a pot.” The 13 by 10 inch cabinet, which is about 14 inches tall, includes a 14 by 12 inch drip pan and resembles a small locker. The cabinet, which can be placed on top of a gas or electric stove, uses a moist heat, which rids the burger of the fat and grease that comes from broiling or frying. Greenbacker, who once said that he lacked the capital to sell en masse, has no aspirations of getting rich off the chest. Neither does Gattilia. However, some people do. Gattilia said “umpteen” people have picked his brains about how to become rich franchising the steamers, but “then they find it’s not quite as easy as it looks.” Still, the steamers have been profitable, and Gattilia enjoys letters he gets from satisfied customers around the country. He acknowledges that some diner owners may resent him, fearing the machines may take away business, but said it’s too late for that. “If I don’t make’em, somebody else is going to,” he said. After diner owners who spoke to the Record Journal, some of whom had custom made machines, aren’t steamed over the prospect of customers buying their own cookers. “The more people do it, the better it gets to be known. It adds to the business,” said Mitchell Hatch of the Lunchbox at 620 E. Main St. in Meriden. He has a steamer manufactured by s steel company in Concord, N.H. He empties the drip pan every 40 minutes or so during typically hectic weekday lunch rushes. “It doesn’t bother me if people want to make em’ at home,” said John Wambolt, owner of Bradley Diner at 376 W. Main St. in Meriden, where a sign outside reminds customers not to “block the damn driveway.” Wambolt said he often lends his machine to friends. Al Carvalho of Misc. Restaurant at 370 Center St. in Wallingford- who is known as “Zippy the Chef” because of his penchant for drawing caricatures of customers – has had a 24 tray Burg’r Tend’r for nearly four years. The burgers are popular with blue collar customers but not with doctors and lawyers, who are leery of food stains. “They’re fussy. They don’t like the stuff that runs outs of the sandwiches,” Carvalho said, referring to the liquid cheese and juices that often drip from the burgers. While known for its grinders and pizzas, Meriden based Pizza House owner Brian Cappola said 25 percent of his sales are steamed cheeseburgers. The 12 tray steamer was in the shop when he took over the business in 1996. Cappola, whose business is 81 W. Main St. downtown, said some customers have inquired about buying the chest, “but I’m not worried about it.” Mentions of the Burg’r Tend’r have been made in food columns in Chicago Tribune, Miami Herald and Portland Oregonian and customers from Alaska to Hawaii have bought the steamers. Gattilia enjoys the feedback he gets from customers, some of whom are former Meriden residents who write him thank you letters. “They become addicted to them. They sound like they can’t live without em,” Gattilia said. “They either buy a unit or talk one of their friends or deli owners into getting one.” Excerpts by Evan Goodenow |